Quarantined | Torch Coral (Euphyllia sp.)

What “Quarantined” means

Every animal sold under this listing goes through YoCamron’s Aquatics full quarantine program — treated preventively for the common pathogens, observed daily, and confirmed eating — before it goes home with you.

Most livestock losses in this hobby aren’t bad luck. They’re pathogens that arrive with a new animal — ich, velvet, gill and body flukes, internal parasites — and stay invisible for the first 1–2 weeks while the animal is stressed from shipping. By the time you can see the problem, it’s in your display tank, and every animal you own is in the fight. Quarantine exists to run out that clock in our tanks instead of yours.

Our process

• Dedicated quarantine systems, separate from our display and sale tanks.
• Preventive treatment for the pathogens that actually kill new arrivals, instead of waiting for symptoms.
• Daily observation — breathing rate, body condition, behavior — so problems get caught while they’re still small.
• Feeding confirmation. Nothing goes home until it’s eating in front of us. An animal that eats is an animal that travels well.

Quarantined to order

Nothing we sell online is pre-quarantined and waiting on a shelf. Every quarantined animal is quarantined to order — your purchase starts the process, and the clock starts the day your animal reaches our facility.

For a saltwater invertebrate like this one, plan on up to 76 days before it goes home.

Add up to two more weeks in front of that. If we do not already have the animal in-house, sourcing it is the first step — and that time sits on top of the window above.

This is not a rush purchase, and it can’t be turned into one — the entire value of quarantine is time. If you need your livestock by a particular date, contact us before you order and we’ll schedule the arrival around it. If you need something this week, the non-quarantined listing is the honest choice. The full process — and how to decide which tier is yours — is explained in Quarantined vs Non-Quarantined.

The guarantees

• Shipped — Early AM Overnight only: 48-hour live arrival guarantee from confirmed delivery. Next Day Air (standard Overnight), 2-Day and USPS Priority carry no live arrival guarantee, on any tier.
• Local pickup or delivery: 28-day live guarantee — bring a water sample from your aquarium so we can test it before your livestock goes home with you.
• Maintenance clients: 60-day live guarantee on any livestock you buy from us, for as long as we service your aquarium on a plan of at least twice a month — weekly, every 10 days, or biweekly. Monthly plans carry 28 days. Nobody else in the trade puts that in writing.
• Sourcing: if the animal is not already in-house, add up to two more weeks in front of the window above — that applies on every tier.
• Claims: video of the sealed, unopened bag, opened on camera, with the animal on a white paper towel, inside the window.

Why quarantined is the right choice

If you have an established display tank, the math is simple: the premium on a quarantined animal is small next to the cost of treating — or losing — everything already in your tank. It also means you can skip running a hospital tank at home, which done properly is its own aquarium, its own months of patience, and its own chance to get something wrong.

The honest caveat: many of these species are also available from us non-quarantined for less. Those carry a 1-hour live arrival window on Early AM Overnight — or 24 hours on local pickup or delivery with a tested water sample — and no refunds, returns, or credits beyond that. There is also a middle rung: the Lightly Medicated listing gets one short prophylactic course and is covered for 24 hours on Early AM Overnight, or 7 days on local pickup or delivery with a tested water sample. Next Day Air (standard Overnight), 2-Day and USPS Priority carry no live arrival guarantee, on any tier. If you already run a proper quarantine setup at home, that’s a fair trade and you should take it. If you don’t, this listing is the right one. (You’ll sometimes see “quarantined” abbreviated as QT — same thing.)

Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens) is named for the long, flowing tentacles tipped in a slight bulge that sway like a torch’s flame under even mild flow — making it one of the more hypnotic, motion-heavy corals in the large polyp stony family. It’s been a staple of the reef hobby for decades precisely because it delivers high visual impact at a relatively forgiving care threshold: tolerant of a real range of lighting intensity and flow patterns, and slower to show stress than most SPS corals when parameters drift briefly.

Like its Euphyllia relatives (hammer, frogspawn), it carries a genuine sting and uses sweeper tentacles extended at night to maintain space around the colony. Give it a few inches of clearance in every direction from its expected growth path, because it will grow — healthy Torch Coral under good conditions adds measurable new polyp heads over weeks and months, slowly building from a small frag into a substantial colony. Those sweeper tentacles will sting anything they reach, including corals you thought were safely out of range before the colony grew.

Torch Corals in the wild occupy Indo-Pacific reef slopes and walls where they extend into moderate current, which translates well to mid-tank placement with indirect, moderate flow in captivity.

Scientific name: Euphyllia glabrescens
Origin: Indo-Pacific — reef slopes, walls, and lagoon edges at 3–30m depth
Water parameters: Temp 74–82°F · Salinity 1.023–1.026 · pH 8.1–8.4 · Alkalinity 8–11 dKH · Calcium 380–450 ppm
Lighting: Low to moderate — 50–200 µmol PAR; mid-tank placement
Flow: Moderate, indirect; direct high flow causes tentacles to retract and prevents full extension
Tank requirements: 30 gal minimum; needs clearance from all neighbors
Diet: Photosynthetic; target-feed meaty foods (frozen mysis, Reef Roids) to accelerate growth and polyp budding
Husbandry note: Torch Corals that permanently retract and don’t extend their tentacles during the day are usually either in too much direct flow or experiencing an alkalinity issue. Check flow first — it’s the most common cause.